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Fabric guide

Dressmaking fabrics: a sewer’s guide

The fabric decides the needle, the thread, the stitch and sometimes the machine. Here is how to choose and sew the most common dressmaking fabrics.

Photo: Cosmin Ursea on Unsplash

Before you buy

  • Check the pattern’s suggested fabrics and the amount needed for your size and the fabric width.
  • Feel the drape: does it hang or hold its shape?
  • Check the fibre content and care label.
  • Pre-wash washable fabrics before cutting to avoid shrinkage later.
Pinning red fabric by hand
Pre-wash, press and pin carefully before cutting.Photo: Kris Atomic / Unsplash

Cotton

Quilting cotton, poplin, lawn and chambray are the friendliest fabrics for beginners. Use a universal needle (80/12), all-purpose thread and a medium stitch length.

Linen

Linen is strong, breathable and frays readily, so neaten seams with an overlocker, zigzag or French seams. It presses crisply with steam.

Jersey and knits

Knits stretch, so use a ballpoint or stretch needle, a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch (or an overlocker), and don’t pull the fabric. A walking foot helps prevent wavy seams.

Close-up of fabric being stitched on a sewing machine
Use a stretch stitch or overlocker on jersey.Photo: Ashley Diane Worsham / Unsplash

Denim and heavy fabrics

Use a jeans needle (90/14 to 100/16), a longer stitch, and sew slowly over thick seams. A hump jumper or folded scrap helps the foot climb over bulky hems. Heavy-duty or industrial machines make light work of it.

Silk and satin

Use a fine sharp needle, fine pins in the seam allowance and a short stitch. Tissue paper under the seam stops slippage and can be torn away afterwards.

Lace and specialist fabrics

Lace, velvet, sequins and faux leather all have their own tricks: a non-stick or walking foot, sharp new needles and plenty of testing on scraps.

White lace on a black background
Lace needs fine needles and patience.Photo: Divazus Fabric Store / Unsplash
Leather wallet, thread and scissors
Faux leather benefits from a non-stick or walking foot.Photo: Konstantin Evdokimov / Unsplash

Getting your machine ready

A freshly serviced machine with a new needle handles every fabric better. If you are in Leicestershire, PK Sewing Machines services domestic and industrial machines. Leicester itself, with its textile heritage, is a great place to shop for fabric.

Last updated: 14 October 2026

Frequently asked questions

What is the easiest fabric for beginners?
Medium-weight woven cotton, such as poplin or quilting cotton. It doesn’t stretch or slip and presses well.
Do I need to pre-wash fabric?
For washable garments, yes. Washing before cutting means any shrinkage happens before you sew, not after.

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